What are the different types of arborvitae?

Is it a shrub? Is it a tree? Sometimes, it’s hard to tell when it comes to arborvitae (Thuja). There’s so much variation in size among the different arbs we offer, ranging from 1 foot to over 50 feet tall! We use the terms shrub and tree interchangeably for our arbs, but, botanically speaking, they’re all shrubs from their low branching at the base. The genus Thuja comprises five species, including two natives that we offer: Thuja occidentalis and Thuja plicata. The main difference between the two is their size and hardiness. T. occidentalis (or eastern arborvitae) is cold hardy down to zone 3, boasting evergreen foliage that may turn bronze in winter. T. plicata (giant arborvitae or western red cedar) is from the west coast, so it prefers mild winters in zones 5-8. Their foliage stays green all winter long (no bronze coloration), which is an advantage of the species. But their green foliage comes with a massive habit. Most T. plicata reach over 30-50 feet tall (except the dwarf Fluffy®). Does this answer your question? Probably not. So here’s a diagram showing the difference in size and shape for each arborvitae we offer. This is the most helpful tool for envisioning which cultivar belongs in your garden.

How do you grow arborvitae?

Soil: Best grown in moist, fertile, well-drained soils. Poorly drained and wet sites should be avoided. Light: Full sun (6+ hrs direct sun) to part sun (4-6 hours direct sun) Water: Keep the soil moist but not wet. Fertilizing: Top dress in spring with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer. Winterizing: Consider applying a thick mulch around the root zone in winter to protect it in exposed locations or colder zones. Tolerates wind once established and withstands heavy ice or snow. They may darken or bronze slightly in the winter. Maintenance & Pruning: Requires little or no pruning but can be sheared easily if necessary. Avoid pruning in late summer or fall as pruning stimulates new growth, which can be easily damaged by fall and winter temperatures.

How far apart should I plant my arborvitaes?

The distance between each plant at planting all depends on the size of your arborvitae, which varies significantly among cultivars. The general rule of thumb is to space them based on their width. For example, our Full Speed A Hedge®’ American Pillar’ arborvitae reach 5 feet wide, so you should plant them with their centers 5 feet apart. However, if you’re looking for a lush privacy hedge that fills in fast, you can plant them even closer. The minimum spacing should be the plant width divided in half. Therefore, if you want a dense Full Speed A Hedge®’ American Pillar’ hedge, you can plant them with their centers 2.5 feet apart. If you’re growing a hedge of arborvitae, the minimum spacing is definitely recommended.

Can arborvitae grow in the shade?

Unfortunately, arborvitaes are not suited for shade. They grow best in full sun (6+ hours direct sunlight) to part sun (4-6 hours direct sunlight), requiring at least 4 hours of sun for lush greenery. Gardeners in warm climates should grow them in part sun, where they'll get some shade in the afternoons. However, when grown in too much shade, they'll look spindly and sparse. An alternative to arborvitae in shade gardens would be yews or boxwoods.

How fast does arborvitae grow?

Two things determine the growth rate of your arborvitae: the cultivar and the growing conditions. Tater Tot® won’t grow quite as fast as ‘Green Giant,’ and even two ‘Green Giant’ arborvitaes can grow at much different rates if they are not grown in areas with optimal light, water, and temperature. In general, we say it takes 5-9 years for shrubs to reach maturity. It may be shorter for smaller cultivars or even longer for larger ones. Nevertheless, we do offer growth rates under optimal conditions for our four most common arborvitaes: 1. Full Speed A Hedge ‘American Pillar’: up to 2 feet a year 2. ‘Green Giant’: up to 3 feet a year 3. ‘Emerald Green’ (or ‘Smaragd’): up to 18 inches a year 4. ‘Hetz Wintergreen’: up to 2 feet a year

How much should I water my arborvitaes?

This is always a tricky question to answer, as it relies heavily on the growing conditions in your garden! Arborvitaes like moist, well-draining soils, and how much water you use to keep the soil moist depends on your soil type, sunlight, and climate. In general, we recommend watering 1 inch a week. Feel the soil with your fingers (at least a few inches deep) to better understand your soil’s moisture level between waterings. Does it feel dry? Water them a little more. Does it feel wet or soggy? Use less water to avoid drowning them. Also, keep an eye out for browning or yellowing leaves, as this might be caused by under or overwatering.

Why is my arborvitae turning brown?

It can always be worrisome when plants turn brown, especially when they should be evergreen. There are a few reasons why this may be happening: Drought stress: brown foliage is usually a sign of drought stress. Though many arborvitaes can handle mild drought once established, they prefer to grow in moist yet well-draining soils. The easy solution is to water more frequently. Transplant shock: if branches of your arborvitae turn brown right after planting, it’s likely just transplant shock. Planting can be stressful for the roots as they adjust to a new garden, so it’s not uncommon for a few branches to die. It’s okay; your shrubs will still bounce back. Keep them well-watered (but not overwatered) as they establish in your garden. Natural foliage drop: if the foliage on the inner part of your arborvitae is browning, don’t worry! This is entirely normal and expected. As your arborvitae grows, the inner foliage will be shaded by new growth, causing it to turn brown and shed. It’s not being used for photosynthesis, so your plant no longer needs it. Winter burn: if you notice browning during or after winter, usually only on one side of your shrub, it’s likely winter burn. Sunlight and cold winds in the winter can dry out the foliage, turning it brown. Plant your arborvitaes in a sheltered location or protect them with tree wrap/burlap to avoid winter burn. Disease: Some fungal infections can turn your arborvitaes brown. Arborvitaes are more susceptible to disease when they are stressed, so water and fertilize them properly. Remove infected branches and treat your plant with a fungicide. It’s fairly normal if your arborvitaes turn a little orange, purple, or bronze (not brown) in winter. As you drive around, you may notice it happening in other conifers as well. However, this should be temporary for the winter before turning green again in spring.

When is the best time to plant arborvitae?

The best time to plant arborvitae depends on where you live. For gardeners in cold climates, we recommend planting your arborvitae in late spring. It gives your plants plenty of time to establish before the next winter arrives. However, for gardeners in warm climates, we recommend the opposite. Instead, plant your arborvitaes in the fall to give them enough time to establish before the following summer. With that being said, you can get away with planting your arborvitae in both seasons, no matter where you live. Ensure you provide plenty of water for the first few weeks after planting.

Should I trim my arborvitae? If so, when?

Arborvitaes are low maintenance, requiring no trimming or pruning for lush green growth. However, you can lightly trim them in early spring to remove winter dieback or gently shape them. However, we don’t recommend any heavy trimming or cutting them down to size. Rather than trimming your arborvitae to keep it small, we suggest choosing a cultivar that has a compact habit.

Are arborvitaes evergreen?

Yes, arborvitaes are evergreen, keeping their scale-like foliage over the winter for added interest. While most will keep their green color, especially in mild zones, it’s not uncommon for some cultivars to take on orange, purple, or bronze hues during the winter months in cold climates. This coloration is temporary for the winter!

Arborvitae, juniper, or false cypress: what's the difference?

Arborvitae, juniper, and false cypress are all members of the cypress family. However, though they’re related (and frequently confused), there a quite a few differences between them. Compared to arborvitae, junipers (Juniperus) tend to have more bluish-green foliage, are slower growing, and produce aromatic “berries” that attract birds. While they take longer to grow, they are deer resistant, drought-tolerant, and easier to grow. False cypress (Chamaecyparis) looks similar to arborvitae but comes in a broader range of textures and colors (like gold and blue). They tend to be smaller and much slower growing, but that might be good, depending on your garden. False cypress is also deer resistant, unlike arborvitae.

Why are my arborvitae's branches drooping?

If your arborvitae branches are drooping in the winter, it’s likely due to dry soil, heavy snow, strong winds, or all of the above. There are a few things you can do to prevent this. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your plants to insulate the roots and keep the soil moist. If your plant dries out, it will droop and turn brown. Gently knock heavy snow off the branches of your plants. Plant your arborvitae in an area protected from strong winds (like on the side of your home or shed). Wrap your plants with burlap or tree wrap for winter protection.

Will arborvitae grow in containers?

Arborvitae grows well in containers, especially the dwarf varieties like Tater Tot®, Anna's Magic Ball®, and Fluffy®. There are three things to consider when growing arborvitae in pots: Select the right size pots for your arborvitae! We recommend starting small, then upsizing your pot as your plant grows. Keep in mind, many arborvitaes reach epic proportions, requiring very large containers. As they mature, you may have to transplant them in the garden. Make sure your container has large drainage holes. Arborvitae is not tolerant of saturated soils. Place your pot in an area that receives full sun (6+ hours direct sunlight) or part sun (4-6 hours direct sun). We don't recommend growing our largest arborvitaes, like 'Green Giant' and Spring Grove®, in containers for longer than one or two seasons. They grow very quickly, requiring enough space to spread out.

Is arborvitae deer resistant?

With fragrant, scale-like foliage, you’d think arborvitae would be deer resistant. But – unfortunately – that is NOT the case. Rutgers University gives arborvitae a D-rating on their deer resistance list, which means they are “frequently severely damaged.” If deer are a problem in your garden, we recommend planting tall junipers, false cypress, or boxwood instead.

Is arborvitae toxic to dogs and cats?

Arborvitae can be poisonous for cats and dogs when ingested in high quantities. Eating it can cause nausea, vomiting, indigestion, and death (though highly unlikely).

Which arborvitae grows the fastest?

Without a doubt, the two arborvitaes that grow the fastest are ‘Green Giant’ and Full Speed A Hedge® ‘American Pillar’. Both of these arborvitaes may start small but grow quickly to hide any unsightly views. ‘Green Giant’ can grow up to 3 feet a year, while Full Speed A Hedge®’ American Pillar’ grows 2 feet a year.

Why is my arborvitae turning yellow?

There are a few reasons why your arborvitae may be turning yellow: Overwatering: the most common cause of yellowing foliage is too much water. Arborvitae is not tolerant of wet soils and requires good drainage. If the roots stay wet for too long, they will rot, turning the foliage yellow. Nutrient deficiency: yellowing foliage is one sign that your plant is deficient in nitrogen, potassium, or iron. If you haven’t fertilized your arborvitae, now is the time to start! Apply a well-balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Natural foliage drop: it’s entirely normal for the inner part of your arborvitae to turn yellow as it grows. The inner leaves are shaded by new growth, so the plant no longer needs them.

Are arborvitaes native?

All arborvitaes offered at Great Garden Plants are either American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), giant arborvitae (Thuja plicata), or a hybrid (Thuja x). All of them are native to North America!

Should I wrap my arborvitae in winter?

The short answer: it depends! Gardeners wrap their arborvitae in winter to avoid winter burn, which happens when the foliage dries out and dies from sun and wind exposure. Young arborvitaes planted in open areas in colder climates are most likely to suffer from winter burns. If this sounds like your plant, you might consider loosely wrapping it with tree wrap or burlap! With that being said, not every arborvitae is susceptible to winter burn. If your arborvitae is in a sheltered location (protected from winds), has a mature root system (to access deep water reserves), or your area has mild winters (zones 7 & up), it will probably be fine without added protection.

Are arborvitae roots aggressive or invasive?

Thankfully, no! With a plant that gets this big, you'd think it has a monstrous root system to go along with it. Instead, it's mainly composed of shallow and thin fibrous roots that only spread as far as the aboveground width.

Questions Answered Series: Shasta Daisy

May 26, 2023

Your questions on Shasta daisies answered!

There is no more accurate signal to the start of summer than the blooming of Shasta daisies. A part of the Asteraceae family, the Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) is one of the most common types of daisies. It is a garden classic featuring golden yellow centers and large white flower petals. These superstar perennials feature long-lasting blooms, attract pollinators, and look amazing in cut-flower arrangements. So whether you want to add Shasta daisies to your garden or have questions about your plants, the horticultural experts at Great Garden Plants have you covered.

Here, we’ll answer all your frequently asked questions about growing and caring for Shasta daisies!

How do you grow Shasta daisies?
What months do Shasta daisy plants bloom?
How tall will Shasta daisy get?
What pairs well with Shasta daisies?
Can you grow Shasta daisies in a pot?
What is the difference between a daisy and a Shasta daisy?
How do you winterize Shasta daisies?
Do Shasta daisies need to be deadheaded?
What are some problems with Shasta daisies?
Are Shasta daisies safe for pets?
Are Shasta daisies deer-resistant?
Has the botanical name of Shasta daisy changed?
Why aren’t my Shasta daisies blooming?

How do you grow Shasta daisies?

Shasta daisies can thrive for years after planting if adequately cared for. Learn the growing requirements for these truly sun-loving perennials!

Soil: When planting your shasta daisies, search for areas with average to dry, well-draining soils. Good soil drainage is essential, as these plants steer clear of soggy or overwatered soil.

Light: Daisy flowers do well in full sun (> 6 hours sun). They can tolerate some light shade, particularly in hot summer climates or when plants are grown in dry soils.

Water: Shasta daisy is drought-tolerant, but does grow best when given some supplemental water, especially as young plants are establishing.

Fertilizing: Fertilizer can be applied to daisies in the spring if desired, but it usually isn’t necessary. They are not heavy feeders.

Maintenance & Pruning: Daisies are a low-maintenance perennial. Remove spent flower heads, and trim back stems to the highest leaf node after flowering to encourage reblooming, and that’s it! The center of clumps will weaken, so divide clumps as needed (every 2-3 years) to maintain vigor.

Let us explain exactly what each type of lighting means and gives great tips on success in your garden.

What months do Shasta daisy plants bloom?

Daisy flowers are truly a summertime classic, blooming anywhere from late spring or summer through the beginning of fall. They are prolific growers, meaning they come and grow (get it?) very quickly and continuously throughout the season. Some varieties spread rapidly, so ensure they are confined within a garden bed or a container if you don’t want too many blooms! But then again, is that such a bad thing?

How tall will Shasta daisy get?

Shasta daisies are notorious for their tall habit, with sturdy stems that reach up to 3 feet tall, with some varieties like the ‘Becky’ Shasta daisy coming in even taller at 3.5 feet tall! The height of your Shasta daisy will largely depend on it’s growing conditions.

What pairs well with Shasta daisies?

If you’re looking for companion plants for Shasta daisies, look no further! Consider choosing other sun-loving perennials for your zone that are drought-tolerant and tall in habit. To create the ultimate cottage garden of your dreams, discover some of our favorite companion plants for Shasta daisies like coneflower (Echinacea), Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), or tickseed (Coreopsis). Surprisingly, all these plants are also within the daisy (Asteraceae) family!

Other staff-favorite companion plants include:

Can you grow Shasta daisies in a pot?

Yes, Shasta daisies can thrive in pots and containers all summer long! As long as you place your plants in a sunny spot and use pots with drainage holes, you can see their upright habit begin to grow with prolific blooms. Create a sunny disposition on your doorstep, or wow guests on your patio. Just remember to prune to make way for new growth.

What is the difference between a daisy and a Shasta daisy?

The term “daisy” encompasses a wide range of plants, which includes the beloved Shasta daisy. Other commonly known daisies are coneflowers, Gerber daisies, Gloriosa daisies, and Marguerite daisies. There are a few traits that distinguish Shasta daisies from the rest. They are one of the largest daisies, reaching 12-42 inches tall, boasting white flowers with a prominent yellow center. Some Shasta daisies like ‘Marshmallow’ can even appear puffy or fringed with double blooms. The span of their flowers is also wider, about 3 to 4 inches across at maturity.

How do you winterize Shasta daisies?

No special care is needed to winterize your Shasta daisies! You may leave spent blooms on plants over winter to reseed and attract birds in the winter garden. Just be sure to clean up spent foliage in early spring just before new growth emerges.

Do Shasta daisies need to be deadheaded?

While it isn’t required, deadheading daisies are greatly encouraged to promote new flower growth, mainly because they can bloom several times in one season. When flowers begin to wilt and turn brown after the season ends, cut back down to the leaves to encourage solid and prolific blooms the following year. If you deadhead regularly, you can significantly extend beautiful daisy flowers!

What are some problems with Shasta daisies?

While Shasta daisies are generally a very hardy plant, they are prone to a few problems:

Root rot: waterlogged soils can cause Shasta daisies to develop root rot, which is why we recommend planting it in sites with drainage. If you suspect your plant is suffering from root rot, transplant it to a new site and reduce watering. You can also keep it planted in the same site, but slightly raise the crown to be above the soil line to encourage water to drain away from the plant.
Pests: aphids and mealybugs are common pests for Shasta daisies. If you notice signs of pest damage (holes in leaves, discoloration, stunted growth), examine your plant closely to look for physical bugs. Prune off any areas you think are infested and wash off your pruners and consider treating your plants with a gentle pesticide or neem oil.

Are Shasta daisies safe for pets?

Shasta daisy is mildly toxic and should not be consumed by humans or animals. According to the ASPCA, when cats or dogs digest daisies, they may experience vomiting, diarrhea, and incoordination. Consider creating a garden with pet-friendly plants to keep them safe. But remember, it’s just as important to train your pets to avoid ingesting any plants. For a list of dog-friendly plants, check out our blog HERE, and for a full list of toxic plants from the ASCPA visit the link HERE.

Are Shasta daisies deer-resistant?

While some sources list Shasta daisies as deer-resistant, they are unfortunately susceptible to deer damage. The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station gives shasta daisies a C-rating, which means it is “occasionally severely damaged” by deer. For deer-resistant plants, shop our collection HERE.

Has the botanical name of Shasta daisy changed?

Did you do a double-take when you reading the Shasta daisy botanical name? You’re not alone! Previously referred to by its botanical name Chrysanthemum x superbum, it’s name was changed and is now referred to as Leucanthemum x superbum.

Why aren’t my Shasta daisies blooming?

There are a few reasons your Shasta daisies may not bloom; often, overwatering, heat-stress or over-fertilizing are the culprits. Remember, these plants love sunlight and are extremely drought tolerant, so occasional watering when the soil is visibly dry should be good. If you’re in an area with higher temperatures, your Shasta daisies could benefit from more frequent watering. You could also try pruning your plants more often to encourage new growth.

Shop Shasta Daisies online:

Written by: Lindsey Griffith, click here to read bio.

Questions, comments, or concerns? Let us know! We have an experienced, knowledgeable staff ready to make sure your garden turns out perfect. Or check out our other blogs, here.

Questions Answered Series: Shasta Daisy

Questions Answered Series: Shasta Daisy

What Would You like to Learn About Today?

Your questions on Shasta daisies answered!

How do you grow Shasta daisies?

Let us explain exactly what each type of lighting means and gives great tips on success in your garden.

What months do Shasta daisy plants bloom?

How tall will Shasta daisy get?

What pairs well with Shasta daisies?

Can you grow Shasta daisies in a pot?

What is the difference between a daisy and a Shasta daisy?

How do you winterize Shasta daisies?

Do Shasta daisies need to be deadheaded?

What are some problems with Shasta daisies?

Are Shasta daisies safe for pets?

Are Shasta daisies deer-resistant?

Has the botanical name of Shasta daisy changed?

Why aren’t my Shasta daisies blooming?

Shop Shasta Daisies online:

Questions Answered Series: Shasta Daisy

Questions Answered Series: Arborvitae (Thuja)

Questions Answered Series: Rain Gardens

Questions Answered Series: Lavender (Lavandula)

About

Support

Have a Question?

BBB Rating A+